The sultans who lived in the Alhambra were allowed to have up to four wives. However, they were required to treat each wife equally in all respects. This meant that they needed both a strong economy and strong vitality! So, many sultans only had one or two wives, and many concubines. Wise indeed!
When the Moors left Spain, Christian Charles V, respected the splendour of the Moorish palace, but built his own palace on the Alhambra grounds, with a unique circle within a square design. Even without the dome, the acoustics are perfect in the centre.
You can get a sense of the place if you watch this video of Loreena McKennitt singing at the Alhambra:
The next morning we enjoyed a local tour of the Granada old quarter with Paco (proper name Francisco). Paco was celebrating his 50th year as a local guide. He was born and raised in Granada and has spent his entire life here except for 3 months! Paco explained that by 1661, all Jewish people had to convert to Catholicism or leave Spain. Those that chose to stay and be Christianized were given a Christian name, but different. Their new name allowed them to be recognized as converts. Their house address also included a symbol allowing for recognition as the home of a convert. Even Paco was half Jewish from his mother’s side and half Muslim from his father’s side; and now 100% Catholic.
While we were touring, we came across what Paco said is the “Best Restaurant for Churros” in Spain. To fry the churros, they use fresh olive oil every day. That makes it almost healthy, right Victoria?? Paco said that the best way to sample a churro is with a cup of hot chocolate. Sonya caught me closely evaluating the quality of the churros and the chocolate, as you can see (Sonya says attacking, not evaluating).
Gord is lending lending a critical eye to them as well!
Conclusion: Mighty fine! We just might have to sample many more to confirm Paco’s assessment!
On the Road to Córdoba
Olive trees are native to Spain. In fact, it was the Romans that took them to Italy. And so it is today that Spain has 61% of the world’s olive trees and is the world’s largest producer of olive oil. You can get a sense of it from this picture on the highway to Córdoba. All the green that you see, for as far as you can see, are olive trees.
When we arrived in Córdoba, we were off to see the “Mezquita - Catedral de Córdoba”, or, in English, The Mosque - Cathedral. The Catholics built this Cathedral inside the Mosque when the Moors lost control of the City. However, those in power at the time were wise enough not to destroy this beautiful structure, with its 580 columns. Our guide, Gemma, passionately explained that this is a tribute to the celebration of One God. To this day, even the Catholics say that they are going to the Mosque, when they are going to mass.
Perhaps this will give you an idea why the city elders kept it as is.
And here is the Cathedral within the Mosque
Gemma called this beautiful structure “A Survivor”. This structure still contains the Mihrab, which is a Mosque’s equivalent of a Church’s high altar. It has survived almost 1,000 years, having been started in 786.
The Mihrab of the Mezquita - Catedral
It has been delightful to experience how the Spanish treasure and honour both their Christian and Moorish heritage.
Next we are onto Sevilla (Seville).
See you soon,
DGSP
